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Visit any culinary establishment in Budapest and some of the reasons why Hungary is the most obese country in Europe will soon become clear. In the coffee houses, you’ll see dobostorta, a five-layer chocolate buttercream concoction topped with glazed caramel; somloi galuska, a chocolate and rum sponge cake; and gesztenyepure, a chestnut purée served with whipped cream. In markets you can buy slabs of fried dough covered in cheese, bread served with goose fat and lumps of lard and, of course, lashings of goulash.